blogWalking Wild: Barefoot in the Bush

Don’t Run, Stand Behind the Gun

It was just over two years ago that I embarked on my first-ever bush walk in the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park. As a newcomer at Isibindi Africa Lodges, I was eager to experience the guest offerings at Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge. That’s how I met and walked with guiding legend, Nunu Jobe.

My initial thoughts when stepping off the game vehicle in the middle of a Big Five reserve were likely akin to any sane person’s: Are we REALLY just going to walk into the bush where there are lions, leopards, buffalos, and who knows what else? Is this safe? Am I going to get tick bite fever or stand on a snake?

Nunu gave a safety briefing, and the key takeaway I remember was, “Don’t run, stand behind the gun.” Easier said than done when staring down a lion, I’m sure. As we set off, I noticed something unusual—Nunu wasn’t wearing shoes. When I asked him about it, he explained that he doesn’t like shoes because they prevent him from feeling the ground (I was inspired,…but also couldn’t help thinking about the thorns).

We wandered through grass as tall as ourselves, ducked under brambles, and pushed through thickets. We stopped to examine tracks left in the drying mud, differentiated dung from black and white rhinos, passed trees felled by mighty elephants, and even peered into a lion ant hole in an elephant’s footprint.

As we entered a beautiful forest, Nunu stopped abruptly, nearly causing me to bump into him. “The tree is telling me to stop here,” he said. Just as I was about to ask what he meant, two incredible barn owls swooped down past us and perched on a branch opposite. I get shivers thinking back to that moment, realizing how attuned Nunu is with nature. He understands and speaks the language of Mother Earth.

Since that walk, I’ve been inspired to “walk on the wild side” and have embarked on four Primitive Walks with friends. The concept of a primitive trail is that you carry everything you need—your food, sleeping bag,  cooking utensils, mini gas hob, and, of course, your own toilet paper and lighter (those who know, know). You sleep under the stars in the middle of the game reserve with nothing but your sleeping bag and wit for protection. Fire duty is a thrilling experience done on an hourly rotation around the tiniest fire imaginable, where you stand watch over your sleeping compatriots and marvel at both the quiet and the sounds of space.

Today, I find myself back where it all started, at Rhino Ridge, in the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Park, listening to Nunu’s safety briefing before six of us step off the road and into the wilderness. It’s the first bush walk for two guests, and it’s wonderful to see the experience through their eyes, remembering my first walk: the hyper-alertness, the feeling that something is hiding around every corner—four of us hoping for an encounter, and two, not so much.

We reach the Hluhluwe River around midday. It’s hot, and Nunu suggests we take off our shoes and walk up the river. Bliss! The newcomers think it’s a joke, their eyes widening as the rest of us remove our shoes and jump in. Tracking lions…

At the end, there’s a round of nervous giggles—both relief and joy—as we see the vehicle again. The newbies are no longer novices and can’t wait to do it all over again.

Whether you’re a newbie or a pro, come join us for a walk in the wild during your stay at Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge.

#Since my last meeting with Nunu, he has set up his own trails company along with business partner Shaun Maitre, Untravelled Trails, exploring the Eastern Shores of Cape Vidal, an untouched part of the KZN Elephant Coast. Nunu is also a trustee of the Isibindi Foundation and runs a campsite just outside the Nyalazi Gate, called the Nyalazi Campsite.

Embrace the wild with us. Your adventure awaits!

Guest Blog: Lucy Cooke